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Azelaic Acid in Pakistan: What It Is, What It Does and How It Compares

By Chelure Skin Care ·

Editorial review by the Chelure team · Last reviewed · How we write and source

Azelaic acid is an acid used on skin for acne and pigmentation, and an expert review names it among the most researched topical lightening agents, together with hydroquinone and retinoids. A Cochrane review found azelaic acid probably less effective than benzoyl peroxide for acne and probably no different from tretinoin, with most evidence graded low quality. Strengths and availability differ, so ask a pharmacist or dermatologist.

For a wider look at the options, see choosing a dark spot serum in Pakistan.

Key takeaways

  • Azelaic acid is used for acne and pigmentation; it is not an exfoliating BHA like salicylic acid.
  • Cochrane found it probably less effective than benzoyl peroxide and probably similar to tretinoin in the trials available.
  • An expert review lists it among the most researched topical lightening agents.
  • Ask a pharmacist or dermatologist about strength and suitability, especially in pregnancy.

What is azelaic acid, and what is it used for?

Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid used in creams and gels for acne and for pigmentation. It is a different ingredient from salicylic acid (an oil-soluble BHA), mandelic acid (an AHA) and retinol (a vitamin A derivative). Because it is used in medical as well as cosmetic products, the same name can mean different strengths, which is why a printed percentage and professional advice matter.

What does the research say?

EvidenceFindingLimits
Cochrane review of topical acne treatments (49 trials)Azelaic acid probably less effective than benzoyl peroxide (moderate quality); probably little or no difference versus tretinoin (moderate quality); other comparisons low or very low qualityEvidence quality limits confidence
Expert review of melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentationHydroquinone, azelaic acid and retinoids are the most commonly prescribed and researched topical lightening agentsAn expert review, not a head-to-head trial

How does azelaic acid compare with other options?

IngredientMain useNote
Azelaic acidAcne, pigmentationAsk a pharmacist or doctor about strength
Salicylic acidBlackheads, oily skinCosmetic strengths up to about 2%; see salicylic acid face wash. For a full head-to-head, see azelaic acid vs salicylic acid
Mandelic acidDull texture, gentle exfoliationSee mandelic acid serum
Tranexamic acidPigmentationSee tranexamic acid serum

How do you start safely?

  1. Ask a pharmacist or dermatologist which strength suits you.
  2. Patch test for 48 hours.
  3. Apply a thin layer once a day to start, then moisturize.
  4. Do not combine it with another strong active on the same night while you are starting.
  5. Use sunscreen every morning.

What side effects can happen?

What you noticeWhat to do
Mild stinging or drynessUse less often and moisturize
Redness that lastsPause and ask a pharmacist
Swelling, burning or a rashStop and see a doctor

Where does Chelure fit?

Chelure does not sell an azelaic acid product. Our Acne & Oil Control Serum uses 2% salicylic acid with 10% niacinamide, and our Brightening Serum uses 3% tranexamic acid and 3% kojic acid. If azelaic acid has been recommended to you, ask your doctor how to fit it with other products.

Which acid for which concern? A simple guide

ConcernOptions people discussWho decides
Blackheads and oily skinSalicylic acidYou, with a patch test
Dull, rough textureMandelic acidYou, starting slowly
Acne that is inflamed or not improvingAzelaic acid, benzoyl peroxide or retinoidsA dermatologist
Stubborn pigmentation or melasmaAzelaic acid, hydroquinone, retinoids, tranexamic acidA dermatologist

How do you place azelaic acid in a routine?

StepMorningNight
CleanseGentle cleanserGentle cleanser
TreatAzelaic acid if your doctor advisesAnother active only on a different night
MoisturizeLight moisturizerLight moisturizer
ProtectSunscreen SPF 30+None

What should you ask a pharmacist or dermatologist?

  1. Which strength and form (cream, gel or serum) suits my skin?
  2. How often should I use it, and for how long?
  3. Can I use it with my current serums, retinol or acne products?
  4. Is it suitable if I am pregnant or breastfeeding?
  5. What side effects should make me stop?

Frequently asked questions

Is azelaic acid good for acne?

It is used for acne, and Cochrane found it probably less effective than benzoyl peroxide and probably similar to tretinoin, with much of the evidence low quality.

Is azelaic acid good for dark spots?

An expert review names it among the most researched topical lightening agents. A dermatologist can advise whether it suits your type of pigmentation.

Can I use azelaic acid with salicylic acid?

Introduce one at a time and ask a pharmacist or doctor about combining them.

Is azelaic acid safe in pregnancy?

Ask your doctor before using it if you are pregnant or breastfeeding.

How long does azelaic acid take to work?

Judge after 8 to 12 weeks. Results vary.

Is azelaic acid the same as salicylic acid?

No. They are different acids with different uses: salicylic acid is an oil-soluble BHA for pores, and azelaic acid is used for acne and pigmentation.

Can I buy azelaic acid without a prescription in Pakistan?

Availability and strength vary by product. Ask a pharmacist or dermatologist rather than guessing.

Does azelaic acid cause purging?

A temporary flare is described with some acne products, but we have no evidence on azelaic acid specifically. Stop if you have burning or swelling.

Sources

  • Liu H et al. Topical azelaic acid, salicylic acid, nicotinamide, sulphur, zinc and fruit acid (alpha-hydroxy acid) for acne. Cochrane Database Syst Rev, 2020. doi:10.1002/14651858.CD011368.pub2
  • Sofen B, Prado G, Emer J. Melasma and post inflammatory hyperpigmentation: management update and expert opinion. Skin Therapy Lett, 2016 (PubMed 27224897).

A gentle reminder

Skincare helps the look and feel of your skin; it does not treat medical conditions. Patch test any new product behind the ear or on the inner arm first, and introduce one new active at a time. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, or you have a skin condition such as eczema, ask your doctor before adding active ingredients. See our FAQ for more, or build your own routine.

Related reading: Pigmentation on the face.

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