Skin science

Skincare ingredients explained: what the research says, and what it doesn't.

Niacinamide, salicylic acid, tranexamic acid, kojic acid, retinol, peptides and hyaluronic acid: what each ingredient does, which Chelure product contains it, and an honest look at the evidence. Each ingredient links to its full guide, or browse all ingredient guides.

10%

Niacinamide (vitamin B3)

A form of vitamin B3 used to help control oil, support the skin barrier and even tone. Our Acne Serum contains 10%.

What research found

In a double-blind trial of 100 Japanese subjects, 2% niacinamide lowered sebum excretion after 2 and 4 weeks. A smaller split-face study in Caucasian subjects measured lower casual sebum levels at 6 weeks. A separate 8-week trial in 60 people with mild to moderate acne found a 5% niacinamide gel comparable to a clindamycin gel.

The limits

The effect differed by population, and those studies used 2% and 5%, not 10%.

Draelos et al., 2006 (PubMed) →

Found in: Acne & Oil Control Serum, Hydration Moisturizer

Full guide: Niacinamide in Pakistan

Salicylic acid (BHA)

An oil-soluble beta hydroxy acid that loosens the bonds between skin cells so clogged pores can clear. Our Acne Serum contains 2%.

What research found

A review of four clinical studies found 0.5% and 2% salicylic acid effective and safe for acne, with mild local irritation in a minority of users.

The limits

The strongest trials are older and the effect is modest, for mild to moderate acne. Avoid during pregnancy and breastfeeding unless your doctor agrees.

Clinical Therapeutics review, 1992 (PubMed) →

Found in: Acne & Oil Control Serum

Full guide: Salicylic acid in Pakistan

Tranexamic acid

A brightening ingredient studied for stubborn pigmentation. Our Brightening & Anti-Aging Serum contains 3%.

What research found

Small trials of topical 3% tranexamic acid found it about as effective as 4% hydroquinone for melasma, with a favourable tolerability signal, and a 2017 meta-analysis supports its efficacy.

The limits

Studies are small, few are placebo-controlled, and they looked at melasma specifically, not every kind of dark spot.

Review of tranexamic acid for melasma (PMC) →

Found in: Brightening & Anti-Aging Serum

Full guide: Tranexamic acid in Pakistan

Kojic acid

A brightening ingredient that helps slow melanin production, used to help fade the look of dark spots. Both our Brightening Serum (3%) and Night Cream (3%, oil-soluble form) contain it.

What research found

We have not summarised a specific study for kojic acid here, so we make no research claim for it.

The limits

Can cause irritation in sensitive skin. Patch test and use sunscreen daily.

Found in: Brightening & Anti-Aging Serum, Brightness & Anti-Aging Cream

Full guide: Kojic acid in Pakistan

AHA

Alpha arbutin and AHAs

Alpha arbutin is a gentle brightening ingredient. AHAs (glycolic and lactic acid) exfoliate dull surface cells so other actives reach the skin.

What research found

We have not summarised a specific study for these ingredients here, so we make no research claim for them.

The limits

AHAs make skin more sun sensitive. Use at night and wear sunscreen every morning.

Found in: Brightening & Anti-Aging Serum

Full guide: Alpha arbutin in Pakistan, Glycolic and lactic acid in Pakistan

Retinol

Retinol liposome

Encapsulated retinol, a vitamin A derivative, is the most studied anti-aging ingredient. Encapsulation is designed to deliver it more gently.

What research found

In a 24-week double-blind trial, 0.4% retinol applied up to three times a week improved fine wrinkling compared with vehicle. Some participants stopped because of irritation, which is why our Night Cream asks you to start slowly.

The limits

A small study in older adults using plain retinol. Ours is an encapsulated form and results vary. Avoid during pregnancy and breastfeeding.

Kafi et al., 2007, Archives of Dermatology →

Found in: Brightness & Anti-Aging Cream

Full guide: Retinol in Pakistan

Peptides

Short chains of amino acids used to support the look of firmness. Our Night Cream contains 3% palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl); the Moisturizer contains palmitoyl pentapeptide-1 and tetrapeptide-7.

What research found

Studies on palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 reported wrinkle reduction and firmer-feeling skin.

The limits

Evidence is limited to small, sponsor-run studies; we have not found large independent trials.

Found in: Brightness & Anti-Aging Cream, Hydration Moisturizer

Full guide: Peptides in Pakistan

30%

Hyaluronic acid, aloe and cucumber

Hyaluronic acid helps bind water in the skin. Aloe vera juice (30%) and cucumber extract (3%) cool and soothe.

What research found

We have not summarised a specific study here, so we make no research claim and rely on the printed percentages.

The limits

Patch test if you have a known plant allergy.

Found in: Hydration Moisturizer

Full guide: Hyaluronic acid in Pakistan, Aloe vera in Pakistan

Glutathione

An antioxidant used in brightening skincare. Our Night Cream contains 2%.

What research found

We have not summarised a specific study here, so we make no research claim for it.

The limits

Individual results vary.

Found in: Brightness & Anti-Aging Cream

Full guide: Glutathione in Pakistan

Research is about each ingredient, not a claim that Chelure finished products are clinically proven. Individual results vary. Always patch test and use sunscreen daily.